Iceland {with a baby}

October 2022

What a dream! Our recent road-trip around Iceland's ring road was remarkable. The natural beauty and ever-changing landscapes made us feel as if we were on a different planet!

There is so much to explore and experience here that is impossible to fit it all into one trip. We hope to help give you some ideas to create your own wonderful Iceland itinerary!

For those with kids, I hope to help clarify the question - is that something I can do with my little one. We took our 16 month old daughter with us and it was quite the adventure! And something I'd do again in a heart beat. There were a few things we did miss out on by having a little one with us - I will be sure to highlight some of the more adventurous activities to add to your itinerary if you are interested!

Check out our other post on how to travel with a baby! Emma was 16 months old during this adventure. And don't forget our other pages for our FULL itinerary & highlight video!

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Road Trip

Tips and Tricks

• We rented our vehicle for the trip from Camper Rental Iceland. We chose Motorhome 4 because it offered us the space we needed for 2 adults & a toddler. When looking for your rental, be sure to read reviews! Some of the agencies did not have reliable roadside assistance which was important for us to have.

• Be advised that all of the motorhomes or RVs in Iceland are manual transmissions! The campervans and other rental cars can be found in both manual and automatic transmissions.

• Consider shopping at Kronan or Bonus for groceries in Reykjavik before you hit the road. You will find a few grocery stores along the road as well as gas stations. There will be food here, but it can get expensive.

• Most all of our campsites included facilities including toilets, showers, and laundry. Many of them included a community kitchen as well!

• Find summer & all-year-round campsites here.

• Be sure to stop at the Duty Free shop on your way out of the airport! This is where you will find the cheapest cases of beer & wine for your trip. You will also find some nice chocolates here too!

• Gas is expensive! Be sure to factor this cost into your budget before going.

• While driving the ring road, you may find yourself in remote areas. Be sure to fill up with gas when you can so you do not get stranded.

• Most vehicle rental agencies include a tablet with data that you can use as a hotspot. It will also have maps & weather apps downloaded.

• Bring a refillable water bottle!! All tap water is drinkable. And most stream water is too! It comes fresh from glacier melt.

• Waterproof all of your gear! We bought this waterproofing spray to cover our boots, jackets, pants, and backpacks.

Route Highlights

• We chose a counter-clockwise route along highway 1.

• Fly into Keflavik & picked up our motorhome. Next stop Blue Lagoon!

• We spent the first 2 nights in Reykjavik waiting for luggage updates (some of our luggage got stuck in Toronto) & took a day trip to Fontana.

• Next we ventured down to the South Coast of Iceland: Seljalandsfoss, Reynisfajara beach, Glacier Lagoon, and more.

• From there, we drove through the eastern fjiords and made a few stops to stretch our legs with beautiful sights on the side of the road.

• Northern Iceland entailed Godafoss, Dettifoss, Hverir, Myvatyn Geothermal Spa, and the town of Akyeuri

• We toured an ice cave in the Langjokull Glacier, hiked a volcanic crater.

• Finishing back in Reykjavik, we completed the Golden Circle and enjoyed a geothermal river.

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Reykjavik

Our Stops Along the Way

- Stop: Blue Lagoon - This is super close to Keflavik Airport! Most people choose to stop here on their way to or from the airport.

- Walk along the "Sculpture & Shore Walk"

- Harpa Concert Hall

- Sun Voyager Statue

- Hallgrimskirkja

- Rainbow street

- Perlan Museum: an opportunity to explore exhibits highlighting Iceland's natural wonders. We did not get to see any northern lights due to weather, however the planetarium presentation on northern lights was rather impressive! There is also an ice cave in case you couldn't make it to a glacier.

- Laugardalslaug Pool: experience a local recreation center & Icelandic community pool

- Food Tour: this is a MUST DO! The food is amazing and you get a wonderful mix of it here. Along with a bit of a history and culture lesson from a local guide. Our guide, Perla, was very personable and became a good friend by the end of the night! She also showed us the sights as we walked through the heart of Reykjavik.

- Stay: Reykjavik Campsite We booked ours in advance at this location. During the day, it was mostly empty, but would get to 60-75% full in the evenings.

- I've also included a few highlights not within Reykjavik city limits, but would make for an easy drive/day trip:

• Golden Circle: more details in Golden Circle section below

• Langjokull Glacier: This is the 2nd largest glacier in Icelnad & all of Europe! We found a tour here with no minimum age requirement and jumped at our chance to experience an ice tunnel with Into the Glaicier. Our guides were very knowledgeable and safety forward. They also were super helpful taking pictures! Crampons (shoe spikes for ice) were provided and they had children's sizes as well. Emma actually fell asleep on our Tushbaby carrier and slept the whole time!

• Hike Grabrok Crater: 0.6 mile, out & back hike, easy difficulty level with 150 ft elevation change. Park right at the base of the volcanic crater

• Krauma Geothermal Baths: only 1 hour North of Reykjavik, beautiful baths with black volcanic pools and waterfall edges. 5400ISK per person, no minimum age. Also includes a cold plunge, sauna, and steam room.

• Reykjadalur Geothermal River: more details in Golden Circle section below

Additional Optional Stops

- Ice Bar: unfortunately this was closed for renovations when we were there but they do allow children to enter as well!

- Free walking tour: we did not have time for this and enjoyed the walking tour component of our food tour. But it's definitely worth considering if you're in Reykjavik

- There are a few quirky museums if you are interested:

• The Phallological Museum

• Punk Rock Museum

- Snowmobiling tour

- Laugavegur Street: known for shopping

- Kolaportið: a large indoor flea market

- Here are a few hot springs that are a reasonable drive/day trip from Reykjavik

• Krauma Geothermal Baths: see above

• Nauthólsvík geothermal beach: 650 ISK/person

• Reykjadalur Hot Springs: very natural river/springs, 1 hour hike, free [more on this in the Golden Circle section!]

• Landbrotalaug: small, remote, only fits 4 people, N64°49.933 W22°19.110, free

• The Secret Lagoon: oldest natural pool, close to ring road, close to Hrunalaug, 2800ISK/person

• Hrunalaug Hot Springs: small intimate atmosphere, free, 15 people max, changing hut

- Imagine Peace Tower: lit every year from October 09 to December 09 in honor of John Lennon

Tips and Tricks

- If you are a big coffee person like we are, you won't find any "coffee" shops on google maps...try searching for "kaffi"

- Download the Parka App for downtown parking! There are no parking meters so you will have to get familiar with Parka. It works at a few other locations in the country as well! Check out this blog on parking in Reykjavik for an explanation on the different zones.

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South Coast

Best Eats

- Black Crust Pizzeria

- Skool Beans: cute little coffee shop in a school bus!

Our Stops Along the Way

- Stop: Seljalandsfoss & Gljufrabui - parking is available just a short walk away! Walk behind Seljalandsfoss and then a short hike west, you will find Gljufrabui. This is a hidden waterfall that you have to hike through a crevasse to get to.

- Stop: Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool - 1.1 mile out & back hike, rated easy. There are a few rooms available onsite for changing

- Stop: Dyrhólaey - We parked at the bottom and hiked up to the lighthouse & back, about 30 min each way. You can also park up at the lighthouse if your vehicle can handle switchbacks. There are views of beautiful arched rock formations, black sand beaches, and the lighthouse. If in season, this is a great spot to see puffins!

- Stop: Reynisfajara Beach - black sand beach with basalt columns. Be careful of the sneaker waves!

- Stay: Vik campsite

- Stop: Canyon Fjaðrárgljúfur - Hike along the top edge of the canyon. 2 miles, out & back, rated easy. Beautiful views of the river in the canyon along the way.

- Stop: Skaftafel National Park

• Hike to Svartifoss Waterfall: 2 mile out & back trail, rated easy but with a steep incline up front. 439 ft elevation change with a stunning waterfall at the end!

• Check out glacier hikes in this area if you can!

- Stop: Diamond Beach - free parking onsite. Be sure to stop to see these chunks of glaciers that have washed ashore a black sand beach! It is beautiful!

- Stop: Glacier Lagoon - we found an amphibian boat tour with no minimum age requirement. They provide infant lifevests as well. This boat tour takes you through glacier lagoon to see floating icebergs from the Vatnajokull Glacier as well as much wildlife along the way!

- Stay: Djúpivogur campsite

Additional Optional Stops

- Skogafoss - parking is just a short hike away! You can stop to see the main falls or continue to hike up along the river for more remote views.

- Solheimasandur Plane Wreck: 4 miles walk, flat, best to get here early - can get busy! This wasn’t worth the big stop for us, but may be cool if you have time. Shuttle is $20/person

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East Coast

Our Stops Along the Way

- Drove thru: Eastern Fjiords

- Stop: Rjukandifoss Waterfall – short hike off the side of the road where we stretched our legs. No facilities at this stop, but the views & fresh air are wonderful after a long day of driving!

Additional Optional Stops

- Studlagil Canyon: fascinating river & waterfall with spectacular basalt columns. It is recommended to have 4WD to get close to the site, otherwise, a longer hike is involved. Unfortunately, we did not have time for this stop, but it was definitely something we considered!

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North Coast

Best Eats

- Myvatyn Fish & Chips

- Try sushi in Akureyri

Our Stops Along the Way

- Stop: Dettifoss – you can visit both the East & West sides! We chose to visit the west side as it was more accessible for non-4WD vehicles. The way the waterfall is angled causes the west side to get more spray! This is Europe’s most powerful waterfall so we recommend waterproof gear for this stop! The east side is apparently better for photography as your lens can stay dry however we found the mist somewhat fun. This is a free stop and a short hike from the parking lot. There are quite a few steps near the waterfall however so plan accordingly. We also took a short detour hike south of Dettifoss to see Selfoss which has remarkable basalt columns.

- Stop: Hverir – geothermal hot spot with boiling mud craters. There are also geothermal steam vents. This area smells of sulfur! There are carefully marked paths that are safe for walking – be sure to keep a close eye on children here. This is a free stop and parking is nearby.

- Stop: Myvatyn Nature Baths – these hot springs mimic the opaque blue water of Blue Lagoon. They are smaller than Blue Lagoon, but we found them just as enjoyable because they are not as busy. There is a swim-up bar, multiple pools of varying temperatures, and there is no minimum age requirement. As with all the other natural springs, showering naked is a requirement prior to bathing. This cost $3500ISK/person.

- Stop: Grjótagjá Cave – this lava cave is famous from Game of Thrones where Jon Snow & Igrete spend the night together. You can hike down into it (a few steep steps) however this is on private property and swimming in the hot water is no longer allowed. During the day time, sunlight peaks through and illuminates the cave’s crystal clear water beautifully.

- Stay: Myvatyn Campsite

- Stop: Godafoss – nicknamed the waterfall of the gods, this is one of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls! Parking is onsite and you can choose which side to walk up from there. We walked along the east side and found remarkable view points! We also found steps that led down to the bottom for a stunningly different angle.

- Stop: Forest Lagoon – this geothermal spa has a Scandinavian vibe and was a hot spot for locals. With one large pool, swim up bar, waterfall edge, and dense tree surround, it had a very luxurious vibe. There was also a cold plunge, hotter pool, and steam room.

- Stop: Walk around Akureyri – there are cute shops & restaurants as well as a miniature rainbow road. We easily filled our afternoon with this little big town.

- Stay: Akureyri

- Stop: Graebrok Crater – see Reykjavik section for more details.

- Stop: Langjokull Glacier – see Reykjavik section for more details.

- Stop: Krauma Hot Springs – see Reykjavik section for more details

- Stay: Reykjavik Campsite

Additional Optional Stops

- Aldeyjarfoss: This stunning waterfall is about an hour drive off of the ring road. This stop does require either 4WD or a decent hike to get to the falls. Unfortunately, we did not have time for this hike but wanted to share for your planning!

- Fosslaug: natural hot spring, small 4 person, overlooking a waterfall

- Whale watching tour: we had one booked but ended up canceling it due to poor weather. Most trips are 3-5 hours in length and can leave out of Akureyri

- Snaefellsnes Peninsula & Westfjords area: consider spending 2-4 days exploring this area! There are great landscapes, beaches, wildlife, and natural hot springs. Due to time constraints, we had to cut this out of our itinerary.

- Northern Lights: You can see northern lights throughout the country however the likelihood increases further north! We, unfortunately, did not see any due to the weather but I will pass along some tips for your trip. Check out this website for northern lights forecast – this phenomenon is dependent on a combination of solar flare levels and visibility. The best combo is high solar flare, low cloud coverage/high visibility. Remote locations will also have less urban lights to obscure the view. Happy northern lights hunting!

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Golden Circle

Best Eats

- Laugervatn Fontana: Rye bread tasting

- Geysir Coffee Shop for refreshments

Our Stops Along the Way

- Stop: Thingvellir National Park - hike along the continental divide (where the Eurasian & North American techtonic plates are pulling apart)

- Stop: Laugervatn Fontana - This is a must do stop, be sure to add to your itinerary! Two cool things to do here:

1. Rye Bread tour: Follow along as they make traditional Icelandic rye bread by burying a pot underground where it bakes/boils for 24 hours via geothermal activity. At the end of the tour, you get to taste some rye bread with Icelandic butter & smoked trout – YUM!

2. Geothermal Pools: These were some of our favorite hot springs! There are a variety of different temperature pools with the option of a cold plunge in the lake. There are also steam rooms & saunas available for use.

- Stop: Geysir - very cool to see the original geyser. Although Geysir does not erupt any more, there are other geysers at this geothermal hot spot. The site is very touristy but makes for a great bathroom break & refreshment/coffee stop!

- Stop: Gullfoss - short hike to this stunning, multilevel waterfall. It is both beautiful and impressive!

- Stop: Reykjadalur Hot Springs - 60 min hike one way, starts very steep! But totally worth it for the geothermal river at the end. Entrance is free. Wait to get in the river until you get to the wooden boardwalk/platform – these are the best temperatures for swimming. Otherwise the water temperatures are too variable and unpredictable. There are changing partitions, however it saved us time (and cold exposure) by wearing our bathing suits under our clothes. We packed a change of dry undergarments to change into.

• ProTip: If you have a little one in swim diapers still, put them in the swim diaper and place a regular diaper over top! This will prevent leaks through the swim diaper. Then just pop off the regular diaper right before getting in the water.

- Stay: Reykjavik Campsite

Additional Optional Stops

- Kerid Crater: right off the side of the road, this volcanic crater has beautiful rust-colored slopes & blue green water.

- The Secret Lagoon: oldest natural pool, Geyser, close to ring road, close to Hrunalaug, 2800ISK/person

- Hrunalaug Hot Springs: small intimate atmosphere, free, 15 people max, changing hut

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With a Baby/Toddler

At the end of the day, we would travel to Iceland with Emma, our 16 month old, again in a heartbeat. There will always be pros & cons to traveling with kids, but we loved showing her so many unique experiences and seeing her learn along the way. Will she remember it? No, but it will be a core family memory for us for a lifetime.

You obviously have to figure out what is best for you and your family and consider what your travel goals are. I have included some tips & tricks if you do plan to travel to Iceland with a little one. I have also included some additional adventurous activities to consider if you plan to go without kids.

Tips & Tricks

- Bring lots of layers! And be sure to have a waterproof top layer. The snow suit was ideal - allowed a cozy bottom layer for in the car and then an extra warm, and waterproof layer to put on in one fail swoop! Her waterproof leather boots also got daily use.

- Travel carseat: We loved our cosco carseat! It is super lightweight and comfortable for Emma as well. It fits well in our travel carseat bag (we often pack diapers in this bag as well!). It is safety approved by US standards but EU standards technically require no chest buckle. We were not questioned while we were traveling, however if you have any question, most vehicle rental companies also offer carseats for rental as well!

- Baby carrier: We brought 2 different baby carriers to tackle different adventures.

1. I wore our Tushbaby through the airport and ended up using it on most of our hikes. This was on accident as our luggage was delayed, but it worked out surprisingly well! Emma is so comfortable with our Tushbaby and she ended up falling asleep on our glacier cave hike perched on the Tushbaby.

2. We packed our MiniMei shoulder carrier for hikes; it was however delayed with our luggage. We found it was good for short hikes, but became uncomfortable for me after longer periods of time and was difficult when Emma wanted to get down to walk.

- Read the detailed descriptions of all tours! Most have very responsive points of contact should you have any questions.

- Check the weather before any and all tours/events. Most of these can be canceled up to 24 hours in advance.

Things we missed out on

- Snorkel/scuba dive Silfra

- Glacier hiking

- Snowmobiling

- Whale watching tour: we had one booked but the weather was not ideal to have a toddler on a boat for 4 hours in cold rain

- Volcano hiking tour

*Be sure to read details on age requirements prior to booking. If it is unclear, reach out to the company to clarify. Most are very responsive to emails!

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozMQrlCtEwE

XOXO, Tom, Katie, & Emma "The Wandering Olivers"

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